Mary Berry’s Hispi Cabbage Recipe (The Noisette Method That Actually Gets Eaten)

If you’ve ever stood in the veg aisle looking at a pointed green cabbage (whether your shop’s labelled it hispi or sweetheart cabbage, it’s the same thing) wondering what on earth to do with it, I’ve got you. Mary Berry’s hispi cabbage noisette is one of those quietly brilliant recipes that turns up on her Sunday roast table again and again, and once you’ve made it, you’ll understand why. It’s just cabbage, butter and lemon, but the way it’s cooked (parboiled, then fried hard in browned butter until the edges are properly caramelised) turns a slightly unloved vegetable into something everyone actually wants seconds of.

I first made this for a roast when we had my in-laws over, half expecting the usual “I’ll just have a small bit” reaction the kids give any green vegetable. It didn’t happen. The cabbage went first, before the roast potatoes even, which in our house is basically unheard of. My husband asked why we’d never made it before, which is always a slightly annoying question when the answer is “because I’d never really looked twice at a hispi cabbage before that week.” As well as with roasts, it’s a side dish we rustle up now throughout the summer, as in my opinion, it’s actually perfect with bbq food.

Here’s the recipe in full, plus everything I wish someone had told me the first time I made it.

What is hispi cabbage?

Hispi cabbage is a small, cone-shaped green cabbage. It goes by a good handful of names depending on where you shop and who you ask, and you’ll genuinely see all of these on packaging in the UK: sweetheart cabbage, pointed cabbage, hispy cabbage, heart cabbage and even tenderheart cabbage. They’re all the same vegetable, so don’t worry if your local shop calls it something different to the recipe. Compared to a round white or Savoy cabbage, it has a looser, more delicate structure and a noticeably sweeter, milder flavour, which is exactly why “sweetheart” stuck as a name. It cooks faster too, which makes it a good weeknight option as well as a roast dinner side.

According to the RHS, hispi is a compact, pointed-head variety of Brassica oleracea, traditionally a summer cabbage, though most supermarkets now stock it more or less year-round. If you can’t find hispi, a Savoy cabbage is the closest substitute, just be aware it has tougher leaves so needs a minute or two longer in the boiling water before frying.

What to look for when buying one

A good hispi cabbage should feel firm and heavy for its size, with tight, glossy outer leaves and no yellowing or soft patches. If the outer leaves look papery or the cut end at the base looks dry and brown, it’s been sitting around too long. They don’t keep brilliantly once cut, so I tend to only buy one the day before or the morning I’m cooking it, and I keep it wrapped loosely in the fridge drawer rather than sealed in plastic, which seems to help it stay crisp.

Ingredients you’ll need

This is Mary’s original recipe from her book Mary Berry Cook and Share, and I’ve kept the quantities exactly as she wrote them, because there’s genuinely nothing to improve here. It’s a three-ingredient recipe and it works.

Prep takes about 10 minutes and cooking takes another 15, so you’re looking at 25 minutes from cabbage to table, most of which is hands-off boiling time. It’s one of the quicker sides on a roast dinner menu, which is exactly why it earns its place when the oven and every hob ring are already busy.

Why browning the butter makes such a difference

It would be easy to skip the browning step and just melt the butter, but that’s genuinely where most of the flavour in this recipe comes from. Butter is roughly 80% fat and the rest is milk solids and water. When you heat it past the point where it’s simply melted, the water evaporates off and the milk solids left behind start to toast, turning from white to golden to a deep amber. That toasting is what gives you the nutty, faintly caramel flavour, rather than just a plain buttery one.

Noisette is French for hazelnut, which is exactly the smell you’re aiming for, and it happens fast. There’s a narrow window between “beautifully golden” and “burnt and bitter,” so it’s worth standing at the hob rather than wandering off to referee an argument about who’s using the iPad. The moment it smells nutty and looks golden rather than pale yellow, take it off the heat.

The cut sides of the cabbage wedges do the same thing in the pan, going from bright green to properly charred and caramelised where they’ve touched the hot butter. That charred edge is where most of the flavour is, so don’t be tempted to move the wedges around too much while they’re frying. Leave them be and let them catch.

Why draining the cabbage properly matters

Mary’s own tip, and one worth taking seriously: drain the cabbage wedges well before they go anywhere near the hot butter, since wet cabbage in hot fat spits. I learned this one the hard way with a slightly damp tea towel and a very cross reaction from the smoke alarm. A few minutes resting in a colander, or a gentle pat with kitchen roll, sorts it.

Can you make this ahead? Yes, and here’s the timing that works

This is the bit that makes it genuinely useful for a roast dinner rather than just a nice idea. Mary notes you can boil the cabbage wedges up to four hours ahead, then simply pan-fry them in the butter just before serving. This is exactly what I do at Christmas, when the oven and every hob ring are already fighting for space. I parboil the cabbage first thing, leave it covered in the colander, and it takes about five minutes to finish off in the frying pan while the meat rests. It genuinely takes the pressure off, and it’s one less thing to think about when you’re also trying to get roast potatoes out at the right moment and stop anyone opening the oven door too early.

It’s not suitable for freezing, so this is a same-day make-ahead rather than a batch-cook-and-freeze situation.

What to serve it with

This was designed as a roast dinner side and it earns its place there, alongside a classic roast chicken or beef, or a steak dinner if you want to keep things simpler. It also holds its own next to my Mary Berry Yorkshire pudding recipe, since the buttery, slightly sharp cabbage cuts through anything rich. If you’re planning a full Sunday spread or working out your Christmas Day timings, it’s worth reading alongside my Christmas bubble and squeak recipe, since this is one of the easier sides to slot in around everything else.

A few readers have mentioned adding sage, garlic powder or a scattering of breadcrumbs and roasting the fried wedges for another 10 to 15 minutes to crisp them up further. I’ve tried it with a few sage leaves fried in with the butter and it’s lovely, though it does move it slightly away from Mary’s original, so I’d treat that as a variation rather than the main event.

If you’d rather skip the hob altogether, roast hispi cabbage is worth knowing too. Toss the parboiled wedges in melted butter, put them cut-side down on a hot baking tray, and roast at 220°C (200°C fan) for about 15 minutes until the edges are dark and crisp. It’s less hands-on than the noisette method but you lose a bit of that pan-fried nuttiness, so I’d only go this route if the hob’s already got four things on it.

Storing and reheating leftovers

If you’ve got leftovers, they’ll keep in the fridge for a day, covered. Reheat gently in a frying pan rather than the microwave if you can, since it helps the cabbage keep some texture rather than going soft and watery. One reader mentioned enjoying it cold at room temperature the next day, which I’d never have thought to try, but I can see the appeal alongside cold cuts.

Our family verdict

Tbh I wasn’t expecting much when I first made this. Cabbage has never exactly been a hit at our table, and I’ve served up plenty of well-meaning green vegetables over the years that have gone quietly untouched. This one didn’t. The browned butter and lemon give it enough flavour that it doesn’t taste like “eat your greens” cabbage, it tastes like something you’d actually choose. It’s now a fixture on our roast dinner rota, and it’s simple enough that I don’t mind making it even on a Sunday when I’m already juggling three other things.

FAQs about Mary Berry’s hispi cabbage

What is hispi cabbage?

Hispi cabbage, also known as pointed or sweetheart cabbage, is a small, cone-shaped green cabbage with a milder, sweeter flavour and softer leaves than round white or Savoy cabbage. It cooks quickly and holds its shape well when cut into wedges.

What are the other names for hispi cabbage?

Hispi cabbage is sold under several names in the UK, so you might see it as sweetheart cabbage, pointed cabbage, hispy cabbage, heart cabbage or tenderheart cabbage. They’re all the same vegetable, just labelled differently depending on the shop or supplier.

What’s the best way to cook sweetheart cabbage?

For the best flavour, parboil the wedges for about 3 minutes, drain them well, then pan-fry in browned butter until the cut sides are dark and caramelised, which is exactly what this recipe does. Roasting or braising both work too, but frying in noisette butter gives the nuttiest result.

Can I use Savoy or white cabbage instead of hispi?

Yes, Savoy cabbage is the closest substitute and works well in this recipe, though it has tougher leaves so may need slightly longer in the boiling water. White cabbage will work too but has a stronger, less delicate flavour and won’t caramelise in quite the same way.

Can I make this recipe ahead of time?

Yes. You can boil the cabbage wedges up to four hours in advance and leave them ready to go. Pan-fry them in the browned butter just before serving so they’re hot and freshly caramelised.

Is this recipe suitable for freezing?

No, Mary Berry’s hispi cabbage noisette isn’t suitable for freezing. It’s best made and eaten within the same day, or kept in the fridge for up to a day as leftovers.

What does “noisette” butter mean?

Noisette means the butter has been cooked until the milk solids turn golden brown, giving it a nutty aroma (noisette is French for hazelnut). It’s the same technique used for beurre noisette in French cooking.

What goes well with hispi cabbage?

It’s a classic side for a roast chicken, beef or steak dinner, and works particularly well alongside other roast sides like Yorkshire puddings or roast potatoes, since the buttery, slightly sharp cabbage balances richer dishes.

Key things to remember

• Mary’s recipe uses just three ingredients: hispi cabbage, butter and lemon, and doesn’t need anything added to work.
• Drain the boiled cabbage well before frying to stop the hot butter spitting.
• You can parboil the cabbage up to four hours ahead, then finish it in the butter just before serving, ideal for a busy roast dinner or Christmas Day.
• It’s not suitable for freezing, so treat it as a same-day side rather than a batch cook.
• Savoy cabbage is the best substitute if you can’t get hold of hispi.

Recipe adapted from Mary Berry’s Hispi Cabbage Noisette, originally from Mary Berry Cook and Share.

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Becky

Meet the award-nominated UK lifestyle blogger behind Spirited Puddle Jumper – a mum of three living in South East London! Becky shares the real ups and downs of family life, parenting tips, and lifestyle inspiration, proving that being a mum doesn’t mean you stop being fun or having other interests! Follow along for honest insights into UK family life and opinions on a whole range of topics, from travel and food, to beauty reviews, home and DIY, business and health and wellness.