How to Install Wallpaper

Installing wallpaper might seem intimidating, but it is one of the most rewarding DIY projects you can take on. A single accent wall or a full room transformation can completely change the feel of your space in just a few hours. Whether you are working with traditional paste-the-wall paper or a modern peel and stick wallpaper roll, the process follows the same basic steps. Our guide walks you through everything from prep to final trim so you can get professional-looking results on your first try.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before diving into your wallpaper project, gather everything you need. Having supplies on hand prevents frustrating mid-project trips to the store.

You will need these essentials:

• Wallpaper (obviously) – purchase about 10-15% more than your wall measurements to account for pattern matching and mistakes
• Wallpaper paste or adhesive (match the type to your wallpaper)
• A sharp utility knife with extra blades
• A 48-inch level or plumb line
• A tape measure
• A smoothing brush or plastic smoother
• A seam roller
• A wallpaper brush
• A paint roller and tray for paste application
• Clean sponges and a bucket of water
• A drop cloth or tarp
• Painter’s tape
• A pencil
• Sharp scissors for delicate cuts

Invest in quality tools. A cheap utility knife skips and tears wallpaper. A decent smoothing brush prevents air bubbles. These small investments save frustration later.

Preparing Your Walls

Wall preparation determines your project’s success. Skipping this step leads to peeling wallpaper, visible seams, and regret.

First, remove all outlet and light switch covers. Turn off power to those circuits for safety. Use painter’s tape to protect trim, baseboards, and ceilings from paste.

Fill any holes or cracks with spackle. Let it dry completely, then sand smooth. Your walls should be clean, dry, and smooth. Wash walls with a mild soap solution to remove dust, grease, and grime. Rinse thoroughly and allow 24 hours to dry.

Evaluate your wall surface. New drywall needs a coat of primer specifically designed for wallpaper. Painted walls in good condition can be wallpapered directly. Glossy paint should be lightly sanded to help the adhesive bond properly. Remove old wallpaper completely before applying new material.

Test for lead paint if your home was built before 1979. This is a health and safety concern that requires professional abatement.

The ideal wall temperature is between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity. Avoid installing wallpaper on extremely humid days or in unheated spaces.

Measuring and Cutting Your Wallpaper

Accurate measurements prevent wasted material and misaligned patterns.

Start by measuring your wall height. Add 4 inches to this measurement for trimming at top and bottom. This buffer accommodates walls that aren’t perfectly level.

If your wallpaper has a pattern, you need to calculate the pattern repeat. This is the vertical distance between repeating pattern elements. Find this measurement on the wallpaper label or roll. You’ll waste some paper matching patterns, so buying extra is crucial.

Cut your first strip to the measured length plus your buffer. For the second strip and beyond, align the pattern with your first cut before cutting. This ensures continuity across the wall.

Pro tip: Cut all your strips before applying any paste. This gives you a chance to double-check pattern matching and makes the installation process smoother. Label each strip with a pencil mark indicating its position (strip 1, strip 2, etc.).

Applying Paste: Paste-the-Wall vs Paste-the-Paper

The type of wallpaper determines your pasting method. Getting this wrong causes serious problems.

Paste-the-paper wallpaper requires applying adhesive directly to the back of the paper. Roll paste onto the paper evenly, paying attention to edges. After pasting, the paper needs “booking time” – typically 3-5 minutes. During booking, the paper absorbs moisture and expands. This prevents bubbling and shrinking after hanging. The paper is ready when it feels slightly tacky but not wet.

Paste-the-wall wallpaper is more forgiving for beginners. Apply paste directly to the wall with a roller, covering slightly more area than one strip width. Work quickly to prevent the paste from drying before hanging.

Unpasted wallpaper requires soaking in a trough or water tray before hanging. Follow manufacturer instructions exactly for soak time – usually 30 seconds to 1 minute. Over-soaking weakens the paper; under-soaking causes it to shrink after application.

Hanging the First Strip

The first strip sets the tone for everything else. Take your time here.

Use your level to mark a plumb line – a perfectly vertical line that serves as your guide. Mark this 2 inches narrower than your wallpaper width from the starting corner. This ensures your first strip hangs straight. Any errors will compound across the wall, so this step matters.

Begin hanging from the top. Align the top of the wallpaper with your buffer above the ceiling line. Leave the extra material for now. Position the right edge against your plumb line.

Smooth the center of the strip first using your smoothing brush or plastic smoother. Work outward from center to edges in a downward motion. This pushes air toward the edges where it can escape.

Do not press the edges yet. Once the center is smooth and the strip is properly positioned, smooth the entire surface working top to bottom.

Matching Patterns and Continuing Strips

Pattern matching requires patience but produces beautiful results.

When hanging adjacent strips, overlap them slightly by about 1/8 inch. This ensures no gaps between seams. Gently smooth the overlap and check that patterns align perfectly at eye level from about 3 feet away.

If patterns don’t align, slightly adjust the strip up or down within your buffer zone. Walls aren’t perfectly plumb, so minor adjustments keep patterns looking continuous.

Work methodically from one side of the wall to the other. Maintain consistent pressure when smoothing. Wipe away any paste that squeezes out at seams immediately with a damp sponge – dried paste damages wallpaper finish.

Smoothing Out Bubbles and Trimming Edges

Air bubbles ruin an otherwise perfect installation. Remove them immediately.

If bubbles appear, lift the affected area back to where the paper is still attached. Resmooth from that point, working air out toward the nearest edge. For stubborn bubbles, a wallpaper scorer can create tiny holes allowing trapped air to escape, but use this technique sparingly.

Once your strip is perfectly smooth and positioned, trim the excess at top and bottom. Use a putty knife as a guide, holding it firmly against the ceiling or baseboard. Run your utility knife along the edge. Keep the knife blade fresh – a dull blade tears and creates ragged edges.

Cut around outlet and switch openings. Mark their positions before pasting, then cut from the center outward. For outlets, make relief cuts to fold paper around the opening for clean trimming.

Handling Corners and Obstacles

Corners challenge every wallpaper installer. Follow this approach for professional results.

Never wrap paper around an inside corner if it extends more than 1 inch. Instead, hang your strip so it wraps just halfway around the corner. Crease the paper into the corner using your putty knife. Measure and cut a new strip for the adjacent wall, accounting for any width needed to maintain pattern alignment.

Outside corners require similar treatment. Wrap the paper around the corner and trim, leaving a small buffer. Start the next strip from the adjacent wall, carefully aligning the pattern.

Around windows and doors, hang full strips above and below these openings when possible. This maintains pattern continuity. Cut and trim around the obstacle, leaving paper flanges that get trimmed after smoothing.

For radiator pipes, make a diagonal cut from the edge of the paper to the pipe center. Cut around the pipe, leaving paper to wrap behind it. Seal the edges with a tiny amount of adhesive.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

Learn from others’ errors so you don’t repeat them.

Rushing wall preparation creates problems that show after installation. Take time to properly clean, repair, and prime surfaces.

Forgetting booking time for paste-the-paper types leads to bubbles and shrinkage. Give paper the time it needs to expand.

Using the wrong paste destroys your project. Always match adhesive to wallpaper type.

Skipping the plumb line dooms your installation to crookedness. That first vertical reference point guides everything.

Not enough light prevents seeing bubbles and alignment issues. Work in bright, even lighting from multiple angles.

Wiping paste with a soaking wet sponge damages some wallpaper finishes. Use a barely damp sponge and gentle pressure.

Running out of paper mid-wall is mortifying. Always calculate carefully and buy extra material upfront.

Finishing Touches and Care

After hanging all strips, perform final cleanup.

Go over all seams with your seam roller for tight adhesion. Work gently – too much pressure creates visible impressions or squeezes adhesive onto the surface.

Wipe the entire installation with a clean, barely damp sponge to remove paste residue. Dry with a soft cloth.

Allow 24-48 hours before cleaning or touching the wallpaper. Full cure time varies by adhesive type.

Dust wallpaper gently with a soft brush attachment on your vacuum. Never scrub or use abrasive cleaners. Most wallpaper types clean with a barely damp cloth.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Long Does It Take to Install Wallpaper in a Standard Room?

A single feature wall typically takes 2-4 hours for an experienced DIYer. An entire room requires 1-2 full days including preparation and drying time. Plan accordingly and don’t rush.

Can I Wallpaper Over Textured Walls?

Textured walls telegraph through wallpaper, creating an unprofessional appearance. Sand down heavy textures or apply a skim coat of joint compound. Alternatively, use a thick, embossed wallpaper designed to hide surface imperfections.

What Is the Best Wallpaper for Beginners?

Paste-the-wall wallpaper offers the easiest installation for beginners. It requires no soaking time and allows repositioning during hanging. Solid colors or simple patterns with no repeat matching also reduce complexity.

How Do I Remove Wallpaper Later?

Most modern wallpapers strip easily when scored with a wallpaper scorer and sprayed with warm water mixed with a small amount of dish soap. Let it soak, then peel from bottom to top. Residual adhesive wipes away with water and a sponge.

Why Is My Wallpaper Separating at the Seams?

Seam separation indicates insufficient adhesive at edges, inadequate booking time, or too much adhesive squeezed out during smoothing. Press seams firmly and apply a small amount of seam adhesive if needed.

Should I Paper Behind Furniture?

Unless you plan to keep a wall bare, wallpaper every visible surface. Partial wallpaper jobs look unfinished and intentional. This applies to areas behind beds, couches, and large appliances as well.

 

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